Of all the summer-blooming perennials, coreopsis is one of the easiest to grow.

It's imperative that it get full sun and good drainage. When that's the case, the plant can persist for generations. I like to split my coreopsis, commonly known as tickseed, every three years to keep the growth vigorous. It will bloom longer when deadheaded.

Most coreopsis has bright yellow flowers that bloom in profusion, but varieties have also been bred in reds and purples and a mix of all three colors. There is a wide variety of colors and sizes.

One of my favorite cultivars is 'Creme Brulee.' I first saw it about five years ago at a garden writers event. Breeders started the hype machine then, but it turns out that this plant lives up to its advance publicity.

'Creme Brulee' is a threadleaf coreopsis, meaning it has fine, ferny foliage. It's a prolific bloomer, hardy to zone 4 and resistant to powdery mildew. In late summer, it should be cut back to force branching and another round of blooms for the fall.

It will fill the garden with pretty yellow blooms starting in early summer and continue until frost, returning year after year.

-- Doug Oster, Pittsburgh Post-Gazette

	Nancy Settino of Murrysville illustrates the thriller-filler-spiller concept. Her thriller plant is vanilla butterfly argyanthemum, filler is lobelia, and spiller is licorice plant. Click photo for larger image.

Thrilling containers

My efforts at designing showstopping containers have never been rewarding. I was more comfortable showcasing single-specimen pots that became Johnny one-note placements around the hardscape.

Then I discovered a formula that even the most containerphobic gardener can readily embrace -- thriller, filler and spiller. The gentleman responsible for the concept is Steve Silk of Farmington, Conn., a photographer, contributing editor and writer for Fine Gardening magazine.

The thriller is the tall, central plant that immediately draws the eye and shouts, "Look at me!" Forget the ubiquitous spike and think outside the container for material to fill this role. The possibilities are endless, limited only by your imagination.

My neighbor Nancy Settino used 'Vanilla Butterfly' Marguerite daisy (Argyranthemum frutescens) in one terra cotta pot. I prefer to use a shorter canna such as 'Lucifer' or 'Picasso' that wows with its coloration. Calla lilies are another option. When the flowers are gone, the wonderfully pigmented, architectural leaves live on. Even an annual grass, ornamental shrub such as boxwood or elephant ears can be used.

The filler covers the feet of the thriller and adds dimension to the container. Some good possibilities are oxalis, coleus, lobelia, caladiums and New Guinea impatiens. Any plant that is low and mounding is a perfect fit.

The spiller is the final touch. Planted around the circumference of the container, it gracefully winds its way down the sides. Licorice plant, ivy geraniums, sweet potato vine and creeping jenny can all serve this purpose.

The total effect of this combination is amazing. The T, F, S formula gives you the confidence to design a striking display while using your garden savvy. Remember this clever rhyme to empower your container creations.

-- Susan Silverman, a master gardener from Murrysville

Arbor (building) day

An arbor is defined as "a shady recess in a garden, with a canopy of trees or climbing plants."

Most arbors have climbing plants, not trees, as their canopy, and there are many kinds of vining and climbing plants to choose from. Annual vines include morning glories and climbing nasturtium; perennial choices might be clematis or climbing rose.

If you live on a small city lot, you might think you don't have enough space for an arbor. But you can build your own to fit an area as small as 3 square feet. It could be even smaller if you make it from 1-inch copper tubing or PCV pipe.

My newest arbor's base is triangular, 3 feet on each side, but you can make yours square, rectangular or any shape that fits.

'Nelly Moser' and 'Jackmanii' clematis climb up an arbor that T.C. Conner built in his Mercer yard. Click photo for larger image.

I like the rustic look, so I used weed trees to build it. If you don't have any, ask a neighbor and offer to cut them free. Look for trees with a straight trunk and a diameter of 10 to 12 inches.

Depending on how high you want your arbor to be, cut to length and add an extra 2 feet for the post holes. I cut my trees 10 feet long for a total above-ground height of 8 feet. Branches from the trees can serve as cross support pieces; use wood screws to secure the supports.

Keep in mind the vining or climbing habit of the plant you'll use around the arbor. 'Jackmanii' and 'Nelly Moser,' a couple of vining clematis (Ranunculaceae), decorate my arbor. Two of the top support pieces were extended 2 feet for the purpose of hanging pots and other gardening knick-knacks.

Use your imagination when designing the arbor. It doesn't have to look like ones you see at home centers or nurseries. The one I made -- a three-poster resembling a mini TV tower -- probably wouldn't pass as a conventional arbor. But then I don't follow conventions.

As Mississippi gardener Felder Rushing says: "Doesn't matter what you do, or how you do it, your neighbors are gonna talk about you anyway." And he's right.

-- T.C. Conner,
a freelance writer from Mercer